Island Time: Hvar & Korčula

Posted by on Jun 29, 2015 in Croatia, Europe, Travel | 0 comments

Island Time: Hvar & Korčula

Hvar

After visiting Split we take a one hour ferry trip to the island of Hvar.  Hvar Town is a hive of activity when we arrive jam packed with tourists, and stays this way for the three days we are there.

An extremely popular destination for cruise boats it’s estimated about 20,000 people flock to the town each day during peak season.

The demographic of visitors is a younger crowd that are here to party, and each night before the sun has set the bars are full of intoxicated bodies dancing to pumping music.

The town is centred around a small bay and watched over by Fortica Spanjola, an excellent spot to take in the harbour and watch the sunset.

 

Taking in the view from Fortica Spanjola

Taking in the view from Fortica Spanjola

 

In the town people gather in St Stephen’s Square, which is surrounded by pedestrian streets and visitors wander the alley ways and the boulevard.

There are several pebble beaches around the island for swimming.  If you want to rent a sunbed you’re looking at 100 HRK per person (about $20 AUD), so we just set ourselves up on the rocks instead.

We stayed in a studio apartment a 20 minute walk out of town which was perfect for us as it was much quieter and more relaxed.  It was a five minute walk to the water and there was even a “secret beach” with a hidden track leading down to it that we often had to ourselves.

 

Watching the sun go down on our secret beach

Watching the sun go down on our secret beach

 

There’s no shortage of bars and restaurants, but they are priced at western standards which was somewhat shocking coming from Bosnia and Montenegro where everything was much cheaper.

A pathway follows the coastline which is really beautiful, if you want to go for a run early morning is best before it gets too crowded.

Along the path is a small tiki style bar called Falko who do fresh fruit smoothies and cocktails, they also have sun beds and hammocks.

Between Falko and the town is another bar called Hula Hula which is chilled out during early afternoon, but later turns into a pulsing throng of party goers.

Green House

Green House

We have dinner at Dalmatino, rated number one on TripAdvisor and booked out every night, and although the food was good it was nothing special.

We had a better meal at Lungo Mare, a bit of a walk from the main square but worth it.  Bistro For is also one of the most reasonably priced restaurants in town.

During the day head to Green House, an organic health food shop that makes fresh superfood smoothies with ingredients like hemp protein, wheatgrass and goji berries.

Hvar is undeniably a beautiful place, and if I was my 19 year old uni student self I would probably love the non-stop party vibe, but as I walk past people passing out on park benches at 9pm I can’t help but think “I’m too old for this shit!”

After three nights we take the ferry to the nearby island of Korcula to see what it has to offer.

 

Korčula

It is immediately apparent from the other people on our ferry to Korčula that the island attracts families and older couples, which suits me juts fine after the craziness of Hvar.

The old town is beautiful and comes to life of an evening with locals and tourists out and about.
There are small market stalls, gelato shops and a plethora of restaurants.

 

The old town wall

The old town wall

 

The island is quiet and sleepy, no one is in a rush and the atmosphere is very laid back.

On the beach old men in budgie smugglers with protruding pot bellies talk in the shade while young children splash about in the water.

We stay in a great apartment about a 10 minute walk from the old town and close to beaches.

 

Wayne taking in the view from our apartment balcony

Wayne enjoying the view from our apartment balcony

 

Our first meal is at Fish & Go, I get the whole grilled fish which is tasty but weirdly served with a plate of raw onion.

The best meal we have is at Aterina, I order the aubergine rolls – eggplant wrapped around goats cheese smothered in a tomato and basil sauce and backed in the oven, so delicious!

Kolenda is a nice spot for lunch with fresh salads at a reasonable price and the coffee is good too.  For a sweet treat go to the bakery Cukarin, the homemade amareta are to die for!

 

Tuna salad from Kolenda

Tuna salad from Kolenda

 

Of an evening Capers Bar have live music with the gorgeous backdrop of the ancient wall and the sea, their drinks are expensive but you can also just sit on the wall and listen.

Our time on Korčula is spent reading books, taking naps, drinking wine, swimming and wandering about.  The days slip by in a daze as time slows down.

After three nights we are revived and ready to head to Dubrovnik.

We assumed it would be easy enough to buy ferry tickets the morning of our departure, but upon arrival (with our luggage in tow) were told the ferry was sold out!

Crisis averted as we found a bus to take us a bit later, and so spent another lazy day on the island, there’s definitely worse places to kill time 😉

 

Relaxing in the sea

Relaxing in the sea

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